Sonia

Hi Sonia,

A walkout basement needs to have concrete walls for structural strength when the walls are less than 18” above finished grade (dirt), then conventional wood framing can take over.

Concrete walls, no matter what anyone else tells you, are always damp and cold…always…in any climate and in any season. So, it makes sense (and cents) to switch to wood as soon as the finished grade allows.

As for the wood framed walls strength, there is no dirt pushing on the wood framed walls, no hydrostatic pressure either as the wood framing is above grade, so the wood framing is fine.

As for the flooding part of your question, I hope you mean minor flooding such as flooding caused by a leaky basement.

One of the main advantages of a walkout basement is the fact that with proper waterproofing and drainage, the chance of a flooded basement is greatly reduced.

The chance of flooding is reduced because rain and runoff water have gravity helping them go around the structure and drain away from the house on the side where the wood walls are “at grade”.

A sump pump is still required with a walkout basement by most building codes, so that tells you that a walkout basement is not immune to flooding.

But flooding is irrelevant as to whether the walls are concrete or wood.

Carl

If you want a basement and you live in an area of the country where the soil doesn’t drain well, such as clay soil, AVOID flat lots.

A sloping lot will provide drainage for your footing drains.

Another advantage of a sloping lot is that it allows you to design your house with a walkout basement with doorways or windows on one side to provide natural light and ventilation.

Also, in some areas the open side can be frame construction, which is a little less expensive than poured concrete or concrete block.

If you have no alternative to building a basement on a flat lot with poor drainage, be sure to hire a professional waterproofing subcontractor.

They will take extra care in waterproofing the exterior basement walls, providing footing drains that drain either to a sump pump and/or to a lower elevation on your property.

Be sure that local codes are considered as to where the drainage can be discharged.

If you don’t want a basement, try to find a relatively flat lot so that you won’t have an excessive amount of crawl space (or fill, if you decide on a slab foundation).

Building a crawl space is cheaper than digging a basement.

If the lot slopes on only one end or corner, though, it will not cost too much more to accommodate the foundation to the lot.

Notice that you are accommodating the foundation to the lot, not the other way around.

We have plans for a home that has 3124 s/f on one level. The home will be constructed with 20% stone and 80% Portland stucco. Two builders’ recommended two HVAC systems be used while one builder said that I only needed one. The home will be built in central Georgia.

Please advise,
Ron H.

Hi Ron,

3124 sq ft is a large house…too big for one HVAC system, especially in a one level house.
With only one system some of the air duct “runs” would be too long.

The HVAC system would have to move so much air to those “far corners” of the house that air noise would be very loud inside the house, and the system would be grossly inefficient.

The same would be true for the same size 2 story home…read my “Home Cooling and Saving Energy“.

And, due to this inefficiency, the one HVAC system will cycle” more frequently. This frequent “on/off” cycling, will make your house go through erratic temperature swings that will drive you nuts trying to adjust the thermostat to compensate for these erratic temperature swings.

Two smaller HVAC systems will not only be more energy efficient (money saving:)), they will be quieter, and keep your house more comfortable.

Also, with two systems, you could divide the house into comfort zones based on your needs.
You could actually shut one zone down from time to time to save energy if no one is using that area of the house at the time.

Net cost difference between one large HVAC system vs. two small HVAC systems? Not much considering the “trade off” of comfort and energy efficiency and of course, operating costs.

Here’s what ENERGY STAR has to say:

“Installing the right size equipment for the home is essential to getting the best performance and comfort. Many homeowners believe that bigger is better when buying new heating and cooling equipment.

But in reality, a system that’s too large will not keep your home comfortable because of frequent ‘on/off’ cycling. Incorrect sizing can also put stress on system components and shorten the equipment’s life.

To ensure proper sizing your contractor should provide a copy of the home’s heat gain/loss calculations for your records.” Source: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=heat_cool.pr_hvac

Ron, a good heating and air conditioning contractor knows all this. Sound like you are talking to at least two home builders that use savvy HVAC contractors

Good luck,
Carl

Buying land is a very subjective process, and the cost of land varies greatly in different regions of the country.

One very important tip on buying land is to always keep the resale value in mind. I know that may not seem important to you, especially since selling is the farthest thing from your mind right now, but some day it may not be. Remember, resale value is always on the mind of your mortgage lender.

I recommend spending no more than 25 percent of your budget on the land. While this is not always possible, and gets harder to do every year, it is an excellent guideline.

If you have to spend more than that, something else has to give, and that will be the size and/or style of your dream house. Size and style determine building cost. (Size more than style.)

You’ll have to juggle hypothetical scenarios in the planning process until it all fits into your budget. In order to do this, you will have to know upfront approximately how much it costs to build a house.

The actual “cost to build” anywhere in the US is the most closely guarded secret in the industry, but here is how you can find out what housing costs in your area by going to my web site byoh.com and using the “Cost to Build Calculator” found on the “Getting Started” page.

Another method is to find a new home being built by a professional builder that is for sale and that is similar in size and style (and quality) to your dream house and do the following:

Take the sale price of that house and deduct the land cost, real estate commissions, and 25 percent builder profit and overhead and you’ll have the real “cost to build.” The land cost may be a bit tricky to determine, but any real estate agent can find out for you. You could even call the builder.

All homes, even used homes, have the site value broken out separately on tax records. Now you simply divide the “cost to build” by the square footage of the heated area of the house and you’ll have the cost per square foot.

Square footage refers to the heated (livable) area of a house, but ironically it is determined by measuring from the outside surface of exterior walls! For example: a simple house that measures 40 feet X 30 feet = 1200 sq ft. (No deduction is made for the thickness of walls).

If you are successful in keeping your land costs at 25 percent of your total budget, you will have 75 percent of your budget left for the cost of building the house. Take that number, divide by the “cost to build” and you will now know what size (square footage) house you can afford.

Now you can start looking at house plans by square footage, and of course style (design).

My wife and I are considering building our own house and we realize that one of the things we need to do is get a house plan. One of the problems we are finding is that that all the home plan web sites have houses that are close to what we want but not exactly what we want. (Also most of the web sites seem to have a lot of the same designs)

Respectfully,
Kevin

Kevin,

Creating an entirely new set of custom home plans requires a considerable amount of time and expertise. Design fees vary considerably based on these factors:

1. The size, complexity and level of fit and finish of the project: These are the same factors that affect the construction cost which explains why some fees are quoted as a percentage of the construction cost.

2. The extent of design services you need: Do you already have a plan in mind, or do you need a unique plan created to suit a special program or a difficult property? Are you a builder looking for a simple set of plans to meet code, or do you need carefully detailed plans which can be competitively bid? Are you going to manage the bidding and process yourself, or do you need assistance finding a builder and making sure he builds your project in accordance with the plans.

3. The level of experience and accreditation of the designer: Some states require all house plans to be drawn by a licensed architect or an engineer, but most don’t. Are you requesting fee proposals from an architect, a professional building designer, a builder, or even just a student who can use a CAD program?

Given these factors, I’ve seen fees by reputable designers quoted anywhere between 2% and 15% of the construction cost, so I’d say the 5% number you got is pretty reasonable. However, you are correct that this is “an awful lot of money for plans”.

A good alternative to buying a brand new set of plans for a house that’s never been built is to look around at houses that have been built. Look for a design you like that’s appropriate for your project and locate the designer. He or she may be willing to sell you a custom modified set of plans for a fraction of the cost for a new design.

It’s important to remember that most home designs are copyrighted even if it doesn’t say so on the plans. You must purchase copies of copyrighted designs from the original designer. Hiring someone else to copy a design, even if it’s not an exact copy, is a violation of copyright laws.

Stock house plans are the least expensive way to purchase professionally prepared plans, but it can be frustrating to find exactly the plans you need. Many but not all stock plan designers will customize their plans although the cost of modifications can drive up the cost of the plans significantly.

That’s why I started www.originalhome.com, an interactive home plan website where you can customize the designs on-line. Right now, our site has a great selection of Colonial and Cape designs, but we’re working to add new series of plans. Even if we don’t have the design you’re looking for, our site may give you some useful ideas.

Good luck with your project,
David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect“.
Carl”
PS. Read my “Architect Fees” for additional information

You only need to select the land at this point.

If you find a particular building site and don’t want to risk losing it you can make an offer with the understanding that your binder or deposit will be refunded if certain conditions or criteria are not in your favor or if you can’t obtain construction financing.

This is called a contingency offer. Don’t put more than 10 percent down as a binder or deposit, and if you are using a real estate broker be sure that the money is held in escrow.

If you don’t know any Realtors, you can find a Realtor or a Realtor website through Realtor.com

If you already own land, jump ahead to the next topic. If not, read on. If you don’t already own land, you must decide where and what to buy.

The cost of the land should be your guide for it will be the first item subtracted from your budget. Whatever is left in your budget after subtracting the cost of land is all you have left to build the house.

Choosing the Right Land or Building Site

First choose the area where you want to live, for real estate location is the main determining factor in land cost.

Next, look for a lot or a site with the acreage you want to accommodate your personal tastes.

If you have lived in a city or town for a while, you probably know where you want to build. If you haven’t been looking around, or if you are new to an area, again I suggest working with a local Realtor.

These brokers know what each neighborhood offers and what lots cost in different locations.

If acreage is what you are after, here too, a Realtor is most helpful. He or she can help you locate the property you want and can help with all the details necessary to assure you that it is a suitable building site.

The Realtor should be able to show you a survey (map) of the lot and point out the boundaries to you during a walk around the lot.

There are poured curbs that sit on the slab along the length of the outside walls that hold the bolts that the wall sills are bolted to.

In line with the score on the floor, cracks are present in these curbs that support the exterior wall on each side of the garage.

Are these concrete cracks normal? The cracks are visible on the outside of the house also in the foundation, in line with the scores in the concrete.

The perpendicular score that runs parallel with the outside walls, down the center of the garage is in line with another crack in concrete poured between the garage slab and the first slab of the driveway.

This looks like a monolithic slab pour, with no outside foundation wall serving as a perimeter.

What do you think about the cracks?

Thanks,
Mark

Hi Mark,

I think all cracks in concrete should always be investigated. Some could be merely cosmetic while some could be structural failure or signs of a potential structure failure.

I hate it when I hear people (even builders) say, “Oh, concrete is supposed to crack”, or some such other BS.

There is an old saying in home building (as well as in other fields)

“If it doesn’t look right, it’s probably not.”

Call the local building inspection department (Free) and/or a licensed home inspector (Not too expensive), or better yet, a structural engineer (more $ but more knowledge).

Here’s another old expression. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”.

I wouldn’t buy without an inspection.

Carl

We are purchasing a modular and need a basement put in. The modular is 27 x 65 feet. The walls of the basement should be 9 foot. We need someone in Michigan to give us a price quote.

Right now we just need a quick estimate (ball park figure) to get the loan started.

Thank you.
Laura

Hi Laura,

You should be able to find a qualified foundation contractor in MI without too much trouble. Your Modular dealer is the most likely place to find one.

You could also call a concrete supplier for a few names.

Get at least three bids from three different contractors and be sure to get (and check) references from them.

In the meantime if you want to get a rough estimate as to what the cost should be, read my article on “Basement Construction Cost”.

You’ll see how to use the “Building Cost Calculator” that’s on my “Getting Started” page to come up with a rough estimate of just the basement.

The shape of the outside perimeter is an important consideration in estimating the total basement construction cost.

Generally, the more complex the shape of the basement foundation, the more expensive the structure per square foot of floor area…Read the rest of the instructions on how to use the calculator to get just the cost of the basement (don’t forget excavation, permits, etc.) @ Basement Construction Cost.

Good luck and enjoy your new home,
Carl

Rick

Hi Rick

For those who don’t know, Clapboard is also known as bevel siding or lap siding or weather-board (with regional variants as to the exact definitions of these terms). It is a “board” used typically for exterior horizontal siding that has one edge thicker than the other and where the board above laps over the one below.

Boards can be made of many different materials.

Photo courtesy of BostonCedar.com

The main difference between cement fiber siding & wood can best be summarized by this excerpt from the NAHB Research Center:

“For homeowners that want the look of wood but don’t want the hassles and costs associated with it, fiber-cement siding may be a satisfactory alternative. This product is available from several manufacturers in a variety of textures that are said to provide the appearance of wood. Fiber-cement siding should be more durable than wood — it is termite-resistant, water-resistant, non-combustible, and warranted to last 50 years.”

Fiber Cement photo Courtesy of Nichiha

As this is a siding cost budget issue (as it should be) as well as a siding maintenance issue for you, get siding estimates and bids and more information on fiber cement siding and cedar siding from local siding dealers and siding contractors and make the best decision you can.

A very important note: With any siding, expert professional installation is critical to preventing problems down the road.

Carl

They save energy by heating water only when needed, eliminating energy lost during standby operation.

Here’s how:

When a hot water tap is turned on in the home, cold water is drawn into the water heater. A flow sensor activates the gas burner, which warms the heat exchanger. Incoming cold water encircles the heat exchanger and leaves the heater at its set-point temperature. Combustion gases safely exit through a dedicated, sealed vent system.

By heating water only when needed, instead of maintaining a tank full of hot water at all times, tankless water heaters can achieve greater efficiency than standard tank-type water heaters.

ENERGY STAR qualified gas tankless water heaters provide hot water on demand, plus a whole lot more. Consider a qualified tankless water heater for your home and enjoy these benefits:

Save energy and money. You don’t use hot water 24-hours a day. Yet a standard tank-type water heater consumes energy round the clock to keep the water in its tank hot. By heating water only when you need it, ENERGY STAR qualified tankless water heaters save the typical family more than $100 per year on gas bills compared to a standard storage model. Larger families can save even more.

Continuous hot water. Tankless water heaters provide a continuous flow of hot water, so there’s no need to suffer through a cold shower if you’re the last one out of bed. Unlike with a conventional tank-type water heater, the hot water is always there when you need it.

Space-saving design. A qualified tankless model saves you an extra closet’s worth of space compared to a tank-type water heater. Gas tankless water heaters are small and wall-mounted, unlike bulky tank-type water heaters. An outdoor tankless water heater designed for outdoor installation frees up even more space and adds versatility to your basement, garage, or utility room.

Fewer worries. Tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of 20 years, much longer than any conventional tank-type water heater. And with a tankless model, the risk of tank leaks and water damage is a thing of the past.

Source: ENERGY STAR