My wife and I are considering building our own house and we realize that one of the things we need to do is get a house plan. One of the problems we are finding is that that all the home plan web sites have houses that are close to what we want but not exactly what we want. (Also most of the web sites seem to have a lot of the same designs)

Respectfully,
Kevin

Kevin,

Creating an entirely new set of custom home plans requires a considerable amount of time and expertise. Design fees vary considerably based on these factors:

1. The size, complexity and level of fit and finish of the project: These are the same factors that affect the construction cost which explains why some fees are quoted as a percentage of the construction cost.

2. The extent of design services you need: Do you already have a plan in mind, or do you need a unique plan created to suit a special program or a difficult property? Are you a builder looking for a simple set of plans to meet code, or do you need carefully detailed plans which can be competitively bid? Are you going to manage the bidding and process yourself, or do you need assistance finding a builder and making sure he builds your project in accordance with the plans.

3. The level of experience and accreditation of the designer: Some states require all house plans to be drawn by a licensed architect or an engineer, but most don’t. Are you requesting fee proposals from an architect, a professional building designer, a builder, or even just a student who can use a CAD program?

Given these factors, I’ve seen fees by reputable designers quoted anywhere between 2% and 15% of the construction cost, so I’d say the 5% number you got is pretty reasonable. However, you are correct that this is “an awful lot of money for plans”.

A good alternative to buying a brand new set of plans for a house that’s never been built is to look around at houses that have been built. Look for a design you like that’s appropriate for your project and locate the designer. He or she may be willing to sell you a custom modified set of plans for a fraction of the cost for a new design.

It’s important to remember that most home designs are copyrighted even if it doesn’t say so on the plans. You must purchase copies of copyrighted designs from the original designer. Hiring someone else to copy a design, even if it’s not an exact copy, is a violation of copyright laws.

Stock house plans are the least expensive way to purchase professionally prepared plans, but it can be frustrating to find exactly the plans you need. Many but not all stock plan designers will customize their plans although the cost of modifications can drive up the cost of the plans significantly.

That’s why I started www.originalhome.com, an interactive home plan website where you can customize the designs on-line. Right now, our site has a great selection of Colonial and Cape designs, but we’re working to add new series of plans. Even if we don’t have the design you’re looking for, our site may give you some useful ideas.

Good luck with your project,
David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect“.
Carl”
PS. Read my “Architect Fees” for additional information

Thanks,
Ron

Ron,

Through the ”70s and well into the ’80s, 8 foot tall ceilings were the rule, and bathroom ceilings were typically dropped to 7 feet. Today, 9 foot ceilings are the rule.

My home plan website, http://www.originalhome.com/, allows our customer to select between 8 and 9 foot ceilings. Most select the taller option. However, we haven’t seen enough interest in 10 foot ceilings to offer this as an option.

The primary reason to build higher ceilings is aesthetic. Taller spaces generally feel roomier and more comfortable and more luxurious.

There’s definitely a regional difference in ceiling height preferences. Southern climates generally have higher ceilings because warm air will rise to the ceiling while the lower, inhabited area of the room stays cooler. As you point out, this means that taller ceilings are more expensive to heat.

You’re also correct that it’s slightly more expensive to build taller ceilings; the walls are taller and require more material. Tall ceilings also require a larger budget for taller windows and doors which must be proportional to the room height.

For a further discussion of this issue, you may want to look at this NY Times article:
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/01/22/realestate/22nati.html

David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plan

“Dear Readers, Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect”.
Carl”
www.byoh.com

Ryan,

I think you’re onto something.

The market value of any house is largely determined by location, condition, and size. You can’t change the location, so if you want to increase your home’s value, you have to fix it up or expand it.

Unused attic space above a garage can provide an excellent, cost-effective opportunity for expansion. An existing garage foundation can almost always support an additional floor without modification. If the roof is tall enough, you may be able to finish the existing space beneath it. If not, it may be possible to raise the roof or add dormer windows to it.

Make sure you can make good use of your new space on the 2nd floor. If the master bedroom is adjacent to it, the space can be used for a study. If several smaller spaces are adjacent, you may be able to create a hallway between them, and use your new space as a bonus room.

My home plan website, http://www.originalhome.com/, has many examples of how this space can be used. You may want to look in our plan gallery for some ideas.

Good luck,

David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers, Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect”.
Carl”

We are also planning to be our own General Contractor so we have a lot to learn. Thanks!
Lea

Lea,

A good way to find an architect is the same way you would find any professional- through a referral from a friend or family member. If someone you know and trust can recommend an architect from their direct experience, that’s a great place to start.

Look around your neighborhood and surrounding area for new houses that are generally the size and style you want to build. If you can find one, you may also have found your architect. Always ask for multiple references and check them carefully.

To prepare for meeting an architect, you should have a general idea of your program (how many and what kind of rooms) and a few images of the style you are considering. You can use magazine clippings or sketches you have made, but think of these as just a starting point for discussion; it will be the architect’s job to design the house.

If you’re planning to be a first time GC, I would look for an experienced architect with plenty of completed projects. Possibly, you can find one with actual construction experience.

Good luck,
David
David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect”.
Carl”

Think outside of the wainscoting box and add some creativity to your project. Below are some simple but elegant wainscoting ideas that you can incorporate into your home. The possibilities are endless.

Raised panel wainscoting in a bathroom

Add 3 dimensional depth by stacking a thin panel in front of the wainscoted wall. This technique also can be used to break up a wall and provide symmetry to the panels behind the sink and toilet as in this example.

Split raised panels

At times you will run into tight spaces and trying to fit a raised panel with a right and left stile will not be practical. Splitting the raised panel so it flows through the corner is a great solution.

Wainscoting incorporated into window trim

You can integrate wainscoting below windows and use it to trim your windows and doors.

Staircase wainscoting

Enhance your foyer with wainscoting going up your staircase.

Wainscoting with matching columns

Using the same raised panel profile you can have your columns match your wainscoted walls.

Shaker (flat) panel style wainscoting

Another poplar wainscoting style is the shaker style. In this example the entire wall is paneled.

Curved wainscoting – milled from a flexible PVC

Wainscoting materials such as MDF are used predominately for interior painted applications. For curved walls and exterior applications flexible materials such as a PVC are typically used.

Exterior wainscoting and columns

Your exterior wainscoting ideas can last forever and require minimal maintenance when you use an exterior grade material such as PVC.

Enjoy!
Carl

I understand that ranch style homes cost more per square foot than two-story
homes because they contain larger foundation and roof areas, and because
plumbing lines are longer, but what is the magnitude of the difference? Are
ranch style homes 20% to 40% more expensive? For example, if a two-story home costs $100 per square foot; will a comparable ranch cost $120 to $140 per
square foot?

I am planning to build a 2400 square feet home in the Cincinnati, Ohio area.
If a ranch design is likely to be at least 10% more expensive to build, then
I will develop a two-story plan.

Best regards,
Curt

There too many variables, such as slab foundation vs. full finished basement, steep roof pitch vs. minimum pitch, quality of shingles, number of plumbing runs, type of heating, etc., to give a percentage difference to the difference in cost in building a one story vs. a two story house.

That said however, two-story construction is cheaper than one-story. Two of the most expensive parts of a house are the roof and the foundation. A two-story home with the same square footage as a one-story has half the roofing costs and half the foundation costs. There are also economies in plumbing and heating in two stories.

What I would do is calculate the difference using the “Cost to Build Calculator found on my “Getting Started” page (see # 5).

Simply run two cost analyses for a 2400 sq ft home in your zip code, using the same “Quality Classes” for both a one story and then a two story. Use the lowest “Quality Class” for this experiment.

The calculator will know by the answers you give to a few of the questions (i.e. attic size, basement size, fireplace chimney for multi storey, etc.) whether or not it is a one story or a two story.

The difference in total cost between the two should give you your answer.

Good luck and thanks for writing,

Carl

Hi Carl,

I used the cost estimator. I entered 2400 sf in a simple cube plan for both designs, and entered one fireplace of the cheapest type (under the appropriate single- or multi-story categories) in each design.

For design one, I entered a 2400 sq ft unfinished basement, and 2400 sq ft of unfinished attic (60-78 inch) to indicate a ranch style. For design two, I entered 1200 sq ft basements and attics. The designs were otherwise identical.
I used the cheapest quality (level 6) for both. The ranch design was 36.12% more expensive. I repeated the trial using the quality level 4 (a higher grade of finishes). With the higher-quality finishes, the ranch was only 27.43% more expensive.

This range agrees with three sources that I found on the internet. One architect on about.com wrote that ranches are 20% to 40% more expensive. One guest author on slate.com wrote that ranches are 30% more expensive. One realtor on an industry blog wrote that ranches are 20% more expensive.

Curt

Hello again Curt,
That’s about right.
Carl

I plan to put my house on the market next summer and purchase land to build my next home. I have a fabrication background in steel. I have been in this field for 25 years. The prints I use are basically the same as house plans, just with steel and of different subjects. I also took mechanical drawing in tech school (years ago!) So I’m not too ignorant in matters such as these. Also I learned much from my father who is the jack of all trades type. I plan to act as my own contractor.

We live in a very rural area with no building inspections. The only requirement is a perk test. This is not to say I plan on skimping on construction. I have always been one of the overkill types.
I plan to use 2×6 exterior walls and truss floor supports.

The last of my children will be leaving in a few years and I want to downsize my next home.

I like the exposed wood ceilings with somewhere around 4×8-10 support beams. I have looked on many sites but can’t find one that shows a diagram of the roof/ceiling construction in a cross section type view. I have wondered how the roof is constructed above the exposed ceiling boards and how it is attached to the walls and insulated.

In my mind’s eye, every way I can think of seems to put outward pressure on the walls.
I do plan to subcontract some of the work, but much I can do myself. I will definitely need help with the roof/ceiling area as I plan to have a 12/12 pitch. I would just like to understand more on how such a roof system works, is attached to the walls and is insulated.
I have also seen on some home builder shows where these type roofs can be purchased in sections.

Where can I go, via the Internet I guess, to find answers to these questions?
If it is of any importance, the house I plan to build will only be around 1000-1200 square feet. Great room with a single bedroom wing, eat in kitchen, combination bath/utility room and a second bedroom and bathe in the area above the kitchen-bath/utility.

I would like to keep the same ceiling look through out the house, even in the bedroom wing.

I have a neighbor friend that is an architect and can design the plans. I just would like to lay eyes on this roof system first. I know there are cross beams and such. I just can’t seem to get it out of my head that there would be greater outward pressure on the walls with a ceiling/roof system such as this.

I also think I would like to use steel plates at each joint where the crossbeams and ceiling joists connect.

Probably 1/4″ or 3/8″ plates, painted black, with through bolts.

With my steel fabrication background I was wondering about using steel plates to connect the roof trusses to the walls.

Or is that a bit much? What do you think?

Thanks,

Keith

Hi Keith,

A properly designed and constructed roof regardless of the design, puts absolutely NO outward pressure on the supporting walls.

Your architect friend can draw you a cross section of any roof design, and in fact, probably has existing examples.

Here is a company, American Steel Frame Services, that can supply architectural and engineering services to convert a basic set of plans to steel frame home plans.

Courtesy of American Steel Frame Services

Virtually any house plan designed for wood construction can be converted to steel frame construction.

Here is an answer to one of their FAQ’s:

Can you supply engineering, labor, and materials?
We can supply architectural and engineering services to convert your basic set of plans to steel frame home plans. We can also supply the framing labor to erect the home on your site. We can supply the steel frame material but recommend this only if we are going to panelize your home and ship it to your site since you can purchase most materials direct in your own local area and save on middle-man mark-up and shipping costs.

It appears you can have them panelize your house, or buy the steel yourself locally to save money.

I would imagine you could call them at 330-352-2490 and get all your other questions answered too.

You might want to read my article on “Steel Frame Homes”

Here also is a web site, Steel Framing Alliance that lists 982 Steel Frame designers, engineers, fabricators, crews, etc., nationwide.

With your experience, you should do well.
Good luck,
Carl