My wife and I are considering building our own house and we realize that one of the things we need to do is get a house plan. One of the problems we are finding is that that all the home plan web sites have houses that are close to what we want but not exactly what we want. (Also most of the web sites seem to have a lot of the same designs)

Respectfully,
Kevin

Kevin,

Creating an entirely new set of custom home plans requires a considerable amount of time and expertise. Design fees vary considerably based on these factors:

1. The size, complexity and level of fit and finish of the project: These are the same factors that affect the construction cost which explains why some fees are quoted as a percentage of the construction cost.

2. The extent of design services you need: Do you already have a plan in mind, or do you need a unique plan created to suit a special program or a difficult property? Are you a builder looking for a simple set of plans to meet code, or do you need carefully detailed plans which can be competitively bid? Are you going to manage the bidding and process yourself, or do you need assistance finding a builder and making sure he builds your project in accordance with the plans.

3. The level of experience and accreditation of the designer: Some states require all house plans to be drawn by a licensed architect or an engineer, but most don’t. Are you requesting fee proposals from an architect, a professional building designer, a builder, or even just a student who can use a CAD program?

Given these factors, I’ve seen fees by reputable designers quoted anywhere between 2% and 15% of the construction cost, so I’d say the 5% number you got is pretty reasonable. However, you are correct that this is “an awful lot of money for plans”.

A good alternative to buying a brand new set of plans for a house that’s never been built is to look around at houses that have been built. Look for a design you like that’s appropriate for your project and locate the designer. He or she may be willing to sell you a custom modified set of plans for a fraction of the cost for a new design.

It’s important to remember that most home designs are copyrighted even if it doesn’t say so on the plans. You must purchase copies of copyrighted designs from the original designer. Hiring someone else to copy a design, even if it’s not an exact copy, is a violation of copyright laws.

Stock house plans are the least expensive way to purchase professionally prepared plans, but it can be frustrating to find exactly the plans you need. Many but not all stock plan designers will customize their plans although the cost of modifications can drive up the cost of the plans significantly.

That’s why I started www.originalhome.com, an interactive home plan website where you can customize the designs on-line. Right now, our site has a great selection of Colonial and Cape designs, but we’re working to add new series of plans. Even if we don’t have the design you’re looking for, our site may give you some useful ideas.

Good luck with your project,
David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect“.
Carl”
PS. Read my “Architect Fees” for additional information

Thanks,
Ron

Ron,

Through the ”70s and well into the ’80s, 8 foot tall ceilings were the rule, and bathroom ceilings were typically dropped to 7 feet. Today, 9 foot ceilings are the rule.

My home plan website, http://www.originalhome.com/, allows our customer to select between 8 and 9 foot ceilings. Most select the taller option. However, we haven’t seen enough interest in 10 foot ceilings to offer this as an option.

The primary reason to build higher ceilings is aesthetic. Taller spaces generally feel roomier and more comfortable and more luxurious.

There’s definitely a regional difference in ceiling height preferences. Southern climates generally have higher ceilings because warm air will rise to the ceiling while the lower, inhabited area of the room stays cooler. As you point out, this means that taller ceilings are more expensive to heat.

You’re also correct that it’s slightly more expensive to build taller ceilings; the walls are taller and require more material. Tall ceilings also require a larger budget for taller windows and doors which must be proportional to the room height.

For a further discussion of this issue, you may want to look at this NY Times article:
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/01/22/realestate/22nati.html

David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plan

“Dear Readers, Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect”.
Carl”
www.byoh.com

Ryan,

I think you’re onto something.

The market value of any house is largely determined by location, condition, and size. You can’t change the location, so if you want to increase your home’s value, you have to fix it up or expand it.

Unused attic space above a garage can provide an excellent, cost-effective opportunity for expansion. An existing garage foundation can almost always support an additional floor without modification. If the roof is tall enough, you may be able to finish the existing space beneath it. If not, it may be possible to raise the roof or add dormer windows to it.

Make sure you can make good use of your new space on the 2nd floor. If the master bedroom is adjacent to it, the space can be used for a study. If several smaller spaces are adjacent, you may be able to create a hallway between them, and use your new space as a bonus room.

My home plan website, http://www.originalhome.com/, has many examples of how this space can be used. You may want to look in our plan gallery for some ideas.

Good luck,

David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers, Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect”.
Carl”

We are also planning to be our own General Contractor so we have a lot to learn. Thanks!
Lea

Lea,

A good way to find an architect is the same way you would find any professional- through a referral from a friend or family member. If someone you know and trust can recommend an architect from their direct experience, that’s a great place to start.

Look around your neighborhood and surrounding area for new houses that are generally the size and style you want to build. If you can find one, you may also have found your architect. Always ask for multiple references and check them carefully.

To prepare for meeting an architect, you should have a general idea of your program (how many and what kind of rooms) and a few images of the style you are considering. You can use magazine clippings or sketches you have made, but think of these as just a starting point for discussion; it will be the architect’s job to design the house.

If you’re planning to be a first time GC, I would look for an experienced architect with plenty of completed projects. Possibly, you can find one with actual construction experience.

Good luck,
David
David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect”.
Carl”

Thanks, Brent

Hi Brent,
I see your confusion. It confuses everyone universally and the answers actually vary from locale to locale.

In my “Cost to Build a House in Indiana” I show the example with an unfinished basement at $100.85 per sq ft, and with a finished basement at $63.38 per sq ft.

If the basement is finished in the same quality as the area above grade and with 2 means of ingress and egress in all habitable areas (excluding baths) then in most locales it can be considered heated living space (area) under roof and the “actual” square footage of the basement is included in the “actual” overall square footage.

For estimating cost, this is always accepted. But, for selling a house the house (if you ever do) you may have to separate the basement square footage from the rest of the house.
A local Realtor can advise you.

Water (well), sewer (septic), and all utilities are always included in the cost per sq. ft., with or without a basement. Garages are always included in the overall cost, but separated out when selling.
Clear as mud, right. Ha, ha.

Here’s another view from a friend and distinguished architect, David Moore

“Hi Brent,

There are 2 separate questions here.

The first question is, “How do you calculate the square footage area of your house?” The answer depends on where you’re located and who you ask: your tax assessor, a Realtor, an architect, or a builder.

To avoid confusion, it’s best to break out each type of area and calculate each type separately. Here’s a sample area calculation from one of our designs at http://www.originalhome.com/.
House Area (SF)
•Finished Floor Area: 2,770
•Garage Area: 788
•Basement Area: 1,344
•Covered Porch Area 217
•Deck Area: 210
The Basement area in this house is unfinished. If some or the entire Basement were finished, the area would be broken out separately.

If someone gives you a total area which is not broken out, ask them what’s included. Most areas are calculated to the face of the exterior wall. Double-height spaces including the top flight of stairs are generally only counted once, and Basement stairs are counted as finished area only if they are finished.

The second question is, “What costs are actually included in a ‘cost per square foot’?”. Again, the answer depends on who you ask and where you’re asking. In a rural area without sewers or city water, site costs vary widely and probably aren’t included in a square foot cost. In a suburban area with small lots and public utilities, site costs may be included.

To be sure you’re comparing apples to apples; always ask for a breakdown of what’s included.”

David Moore, Architect
Original Home Plans, LLC
http://www.originalhome.com/
203 389 8999 (9-5 EST)

Greg,
Actually, there are a dozen or more engineered wood manufacturers, but only a few may be available in your area. The Engineered Wood Products Association has a good list.

These companies can price their products differently because they are proprietary, manufactured products. Beams from one manufacturer cannot be easily substituted for those of another. These products are not commodities like a 2×12 joist which can be purchased from dozens of suppliers.

I would count myself lucky to have several manufacturers to price out. A few years ago, there might not have been a choice.

Good luck with your project,
David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect“.
Carl”

My husband and I do not like the look of a fireplace and media center mixed, and we hoped to have a beautiful fireplace in the great room as well. My husband would like to have the fireplace in the middle of the back wall of the great room, which is the wall of the amazing views.

I think I’d like to find another place for the fireplace (so as not to block any of the gorgeous views), like maybe even the corner of the view wall and the wall that will have the media center on it.

Do you have any thoughts on this? Thank you so much!

Kate

Kate,

This is a good question. I’ve seen both arrangements that you describe work well.

The fireplace could definitely be placed between French doors or large windows facing towards the view. A traditional fireplace could have a mantel and a large painting above to provide a strong visual focus to the room. A contemporary ventless fireplace could have another large window above.

Alternatively, the fireplace could be placed in the corner between the view wall and the adjacent end wall, or it could placed on the adjacent end wall with the entertainment center in the corner on an angled wall.

I suggest you think about your furniture. What large pieces of furniture are you planning to use and what is their optimal arrangement?

You may want to consider what people will focus on when they enter your Great room, and what you want to be able to see from the Kitchen. Are you planning to watch television, or do you want to see the fireplace?

Most importantly, think about how the room will be used and how much time will be spent looking at the view, the fireplace, or the television. Your Great room should be designed for optimal enjoyment of those elements which get the greatest use.

David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect“.
Carl”

David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect“.
Carl”

Thanks
Tom”

Dear Tom,

Here’s my list of the 5 most important things you can do to maximize the energy efficiency of your new home:

1. Site your building to maximize or minimize solar gain depending on your climate.
2. Use deep overhangs and deciduous trees to maximize seasonal shading.
3. Install the greatest amount of wall and roof insulation you can afford.
4. Install the most energy efficient doors and windows you can afford.
5. Install the most efficient HVAC equipment you can afford.

It sounds like you’ve got many of these items on your list already. If you want to add more items, there are endless resources available on the web.

Two major organizations who promote energy efficiency are the U.S. Green Building Council, http://www.usgbc.org/, and the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB), http://www.nahbgreen.org/.

Don’t forget to provide adequate ventilation for your energy efficient home. If you build it correctly, your home will be extremely air-tight which can lead to mold growth and other indoor air quality problems. Building Sciences Corporation is a good source of information about this issue, http://www.buildingscience.com/resources/homeowner_resources.

Good luck with your project.

David Moore, AIA
Original Home Plans

“Dear Readers,
Do you have a question for David?
Click here to “Ask the Architect“.
Carl”

A well designed home or room addition is essential to building a cost effective and more livable home.

Is bigger better? Is it possible that new technology and/or new materials might have drawbacks? …And, so on.

Professionals in home design know the answers. It’s what they do. It’s all they do.

Now you can ask questions concerning the design of your new home…FREE.

Whether you have questions about design, building green, or saving energy, or whatever your question is, you can ask Harvard trained architect David Moore.

Build Your Own House is proud to be associated with David and encourages you to ask him for advice.

There is no charge for this service, so ask away and let’s get building!

Carl